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Weld Mount Fastner System

| Maintenance | August 18, 2014

If you ever find a situation where you need to fix something to the boat but do not want to drill a screw hole or cannot due to the thickness of the panel or

maybe there is not enough room, then Weld Mount will come to the rescue. Weld mount is a two part acrylic glue which dries in 2 minutes and is used to attach any one of the specialty designed fasteners to the hull, deck, nav station or anywhere onboard.

The Weld mount system

” Weld Mounts array of fasteners ” “

I watched Electronic Marine in Annapolis fit out an electrical panel with Furuno Electronics without actually drilling a hole anywhere. They use a combination of weld mounts wire ties and stainless studs to attach cables and the electronic boxes. The studs have flat round bases, which glue onto the surface and then you can attach an instrument and secure with the nut. All you need to do is hold the stud in place for a couple of minutes.

Manufacturers Contact Weld Mount System;


Adhesively Bonded Fasteners

The Weld Mount System is a unique line of fasteners designed to be adhesively bonded to almost any surface, elimintating the need for drilling, tapping or welding.

Weld Mount Advantages for Composite Construction:
Eliminate drilling into composites exposing the core to moisture.

    • Eliminate the need to use blocking to mount components saving weight & labor costs.
    • Eliminate inadvertent drilling damage which causes expensive repair and delay.
    • Can be mounted in difficult locations where tools and/or people have poor access.
    • Neat and clean installation ideal for last minute changes and additions.



2442 total views, 2 today

Prop Puller

| Engine & Propulsion | August 13, 2014

Prop Pulling

Below you will find some of the popular devices for prop pulling

There are 2 main methods, harmonic and straight pull through a clamp of some design. The straight pullers start with the “C” puller which is really only useful for the smallest of props. They then get more complicated to handle larger diameters and larger number of blades.

Even the straight puller can use a smart bang with a hammer to move a stubborn prop. Some recommend heat but this can be unwise. The prop may be able to handle it but anything close by like shaft glans, strut bearings may get damaged.

Acme Harmonic puller

The Acme Harmonic Prop Puller

The cheapest puller on the market. $40

This prop puller is affordable, easy to use, and effective. Works by screwing puller on to end of shaft and hitting the puller with a hammer. The vibrations the puller causes the prop to back off. Great to put in your weekend tool kit.

Hitting the Harmonic puller vibrates the shaft so loosening the prop, see video of a inboard with traditional shaft. Tighten the puller all the way then back it off 1/4 turn. It will back off more as you hit it and it vibrates. Use a heavy metal hammer 5 or 9lb.


Henry Smith

Henry Smith

Prop Puller (shown in picture)

Designed to help you remove a prop from a shaft quickly and easily. Handles 2-, 3-, 4-, or 5-blade props up to 1 1/2” shafts. Jaws open to 6 3/4”.

Constructed of our high-strength Nibral throughout, with cadmium-plated steel nuts and bolts for salt water protection. Bolts are 5/8” x 9” long.



This is a plate puller, with one plate behind the prop and the other at the end of the shaft to provide the pulling base. The plate puller is excellent for removing larger 3 and 4 blade props.

Walter Propeller Pullers simple design can be used underwater! Four sizes to suit nearly every 2 to 5 bladed propeller. Made of steel forgings and castings for maximum strength and toughness. Capacities shown below are approximate.

Propeller Puller #1 Capacity: 3 blades only, up to 20″ propeller and 1-1/2″ shaft

Propeller Puller #2  Capacity: 3 blades only, up to 28″ propeller and 2″ shaft

Propeller Puller #2N Capacity: 2, 3, 4 and 5 blades, up to 28″ propeller and 2″ shaft

Propeller Puller #3N  Capacity: 2, 3, 4 and 5 blades, up to 40″ propeller and 3″ shaft

Prop Smith


prop smith

The PropSmith is the preferred tool of yacht owners and marine trade professionals for simple, trouble-free installation and removal of inboard props, regardless of the diameter or number of blades. Recommended and used by quality-conscious boat builders such as Viking, Hatteras, Lazzara, Cabo, Spencer, Ocean, Burger, Sculley, Post, Delta and many others. The PropSmith is the only tool that is both a prop puller and a prop pusher, with no risk of damage to the prop. The unit is compact enough for easy onboard storage and simple enough for underwater use.

Manufactured using unique materials technology that allows exertion of force of up to 40 tons, and provides a lifetime of service.


C Clamp puller

Ram mount propull_removal_tools

Simple C clamp type of puller, works well for small props. There are many versions of this type on the market. Simple screwing on the handle tightens the clamp pulling the prop off the shaft. Sometimes a smart hit with a hammer will loosen a stuck prop.

For larger props the clamp may not get around the blades so you need a puller like the ones below.

Pro-Pull 1″-2″ Versatile Prop Puller

Ram Mount Pro Pull

The scissor puller is very versatile with the pivot pins, but is expensive at $300 plus. See video below of this type in use underwater.

PRO-PULL Versatile propeller puller is designed to remove 2, 3, most 4 and some 5 blade propellers on inboard shafts ranging from 3/4” – 2.” It’s made of high strength heat-treated alloy steel and finished with cadmium for protection. The threaded rods, pivot pins and handle are manufactured using the finest stress proof steels available. The shaft end of the puller has a recess to captivate and hold the propeller shaft in the center of the tool so it can’t slip off while in use. The offset design of the pivot pins keep the hook of the tool on the propeller hub and pulls through the center of the propeller shaft. Minimal clearance between the propeller hub and strut are required due to the unique puller design. This propeller puller requires no additional tools for operation.



10616 total views, 3 today

Gelcoat Maintenance

| Maintenance | April 22, 2014

Sgelcoat maintenance & reconditioningpring time is when most people are getting their boats ready for the season. If you haven’t already you maybe considering buffing and polishing the hulls gelcoat. This is a very popular spring activity and walking around the boatyard the other day, I could see many buffing machines at work both by professional and by Boat Owners.

Buffing can be a simple maintenance task using a light grade compound or a complete restoration using a heavy compound and even wet sanding to bring back a heavily oxidized Gelcoat. You can wipe your hand over a badly oxidized hull and see the results on your hand.

By buffing and adding layers of protection you not only make the boat look nice and shiny you are keeping those UV rays at bay and adding longevity to the hull.

So how do you bring back your gelcoat. Hand buffing can be extremely time consuming and exhausting. So a buffing machine is in order. Next is the choice of pad and buffing compound.

Gelcoat Oxidization

Hull and Deck Gelcoat surfaces suffer from oxidation due to the sun’s UV rays. This is especially the case for colored hullSabre 42 dark blues. Oxidation on Gelcoat leaves a chalky residue.

The picture of a dark blue Sabre 42 shows a typical situation for a dark hull. The transom which has more direct exposure to the sun has dramatic fading and oxidization while the topsides are only slightly faded. The good news is that this is not irreversible. The color can be brought back but it is time consuming.

Looking at the Sabre 42 pictured I would say the transom needs fully restoring, while the topsides just routine maintenance.

I would use a milder compound on the hull as its only slightly faded. I would then try it on the transom, but If the color does not come all the way back you should try a coarser compound. This transom is just faded and chalky due to the sun so it does not need wet sanding.

If you have a scratched and very heavily oxidized Gelcoat you might have to resort to wet sanding. This can be delicate as gelcoat is only so thick. Sanding should be a last resort only when buffing alone wont remove the scratches.

More on Gelcoat maintenance

2645 total views, 1 today

Space Dryer

| Maintenance | March 13, 2014

H20ut space dryer

Dehumidifiers; Boats are wet and especially when they are buttoned up in rainy and cold damp conditions. Because if this we are always interested in dehumidifiers and when the Space dryer from H20ut came to our attention we had to get one.

H2Out Space Dryers come in several sizes but they all are cylindrical stainless containers, containing Desiccant. The space dryer is simply placed in the area in need. The space dryer goes to work immediately and will last for some time. Once the Desiccant has reached its capacity it turns pink. No need to worry as the Desiccant is rechargeable, by placing the canister in an oven and when it turns blue again its fully recharged. The Desiccant is nontoxic, and noncorrosive.

 Testing the HD309 Space Dryer

The HD309 space dryer has a coverage area of 800 cu ft. I placed the space dryer in a J/24 which has a small cabin of around 350 cu feet.

The dryer worked very well. The air after a few days was very dry and there was no condensation on the underside of the deck. Previously to the Space dryer there was condensation drops hanging from the underside of the deck due to wild fluctuations in outside temperature. The SD309 is the most popular of the space savers, but I think too big for the J/24 cabin volume. Even after 2 weeks the space dryer was not even showing any signs of being at capacity, so there was no need to reactivate.

The conclusion and our view of the Space Dryer is that the small portable rechargeable cylinders work very well and are suitable for placing in several places onboard to keep condensation down.

3314 total views, 2 today

Canvas Maintenance

| Maintenance | March 1, 2014

Dodger & Bimini

Most boats have some sort of Canvas on deck, be it a Bimini, Dodger, or Sail Cover. Canvas just like any other surface on your boat needs regular cleaning. But even with the best maintenance after a few years the waterproofness of your canvas will wear away. No need to worry as you can reapply the waterproofness with a spray coating.Dodger & Bimini

There are many fabrics on the market but the most popular is Sunbrella woven acrylic fabric. Scroll to the bottom of the page to read Sunbrella’s instruction on maintaining the canvas. Glen Raven manufacturer of Sunbrella recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product.

When cleaning Sunbrella always use a mild soap like Ivory snow, or woolite. Keep the water cold to Luke warm not hot. Before you start clean off loose dirt and remember if done regularly you won’t have lots of dirt to clean. Once the loose dirt is removed use a soft brush to brush in the cleaning solution. Rinse with fresh water and then air dry. Once dry you can apply the 303 or other protectant.

If you have windows make sure the 303 does not get onto them. The best bet is to cover the windows with paper towel so the spray does not get on them.

Full Canvas Maintenance article here

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SeaDek EVA foam non skid

| Maintenance | February 20, 2014


SeaDek EVA Foam non skid

SeaDek is made from thin EVA foam which is UV stable and is easily maintained and stain resistant. Not only does it give you a non skid surface it is soft to touch and if you fall or rub your knee on it it wont hurt or scrape. Its a bit  like neoprene to the touch and compresses when a load comes on it, so impact is softened.

There are more advantages; SeaDek’s impact absorbing surface lessens fatigue. Many powerboats use it under the helm station so the drivers feet are cushioned. Cockpit coamings are also a favorite as leaning against SeaDek is more comfortable than a hard gel coat surface.

For more click here on SeaDek surfaces


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Spotless Stainless

| Maintenance | February 1, 2014

Spotless stainless


Spotless Stainless

Spotless stainless is a slushy paste that removes rust stains from stainless Steel. This is an invaluable product for a boater as stainless is a very common product, but tarnishes easily making an eye sore. Boat equipment made from stainless include most pulpits, lifelines and stern rails, deck hardware, hatches and ports, windlasses and steering systems etc. In other words a lot of stainless can be found onboard.

Spotless Stainless;  is not a polish but reacts with the rust. And after it is washed off leaves a protective film.

Our test showed great results as you can see from the picture. It works so well you should thoroughly rinse off any excess paste.


Without any real preparation other than the fitting was dry Spotless stainless was brushed on and after 30 minutes the fitting was washed off. The fitting looked much better, but some of the heavy rust deposits around the central pin were still there.

Full article here

3321 total views, 1 today

Boat Winterizing

| Maintenance | October 19, 2013

Laying Up for the Winter

 What is most important when prepping for the winter can be summed up by conditions. If it is going to freeze, winterizing the engine and any systems that have water in them, is the absolute minimum you will need to do. Any trace of water can cause havoc whether in an engine, toilet, bilge, outboard, air conditioning or running water systems.

If you have the space it is recommended that you remove as much ancillary gear from the boat. This stops the gear from getting cold damp and helps air move around the boat. It also stops certain items getting stolen. Check your insurance policy.

If you are having the boat pulled for the winter, most of the winterizing can be done in the water. The engine may be needed to get to the lift so that can be done onshore and engine mechanics have the tools to winterize on land.

Below is a fairly comprehensive list of projects that will help you in the spring. These are fairly general projects. If you are unsure about a particular system you should consult an expert at your boatyard.

Laying Up for the Winter

Marine antifreeze comes in three different temperatures, -50, -60 and -100. At these temperatures the antifreeze will solidify. Glycol content increases from 30% for -50 to 60% for -100.

Propylene Glycol is more environmentally friendly. Do not use automotive type antifreeze, as they are toxic.

Boat Winterizing full article

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Marine Caulking Products Guide

| Maintenance | October 18, 2013

Marine Caulking Products Guide

Leaks can be just annoying, or cause structural damage and even lead to sinking . Despite this leaks are very common and can be found on new boats and old boats alike.

This page is dedicated to caulking products. Choosing the right sealant or caulk to bed fittings is confusing and a walk down the isle at the store leaves you wondering what do I need. A sampling of caulking materials found at the chandlers, include fast and slow cure, permanent or removable, polyurethane adhesive/sealant, polysulfide bedding compound and silicone, as well as glazing adhesive, teak deck caulk etc, too many choices.

Properties of Sealants


Curing may take days, depending on the material, air temperature humidity-most urethane sealants actually cure in the presence of moisture, which is why they’re excellent for emergencies underwater repairs. Many caulks are moisture cured; some are 1 part slow Curing times 2-14 days others are 2 part fast cure.

Stretch or Elongation;

Elongation is a measure of Stretch. The higher the stretch the better the caulk bond will hold up. Caulk can have between 100 and 800% elongation and more at break.


; Liquid, paste or tape

Adhesive by the numbers

; This chart gives you an idea of the difference between the types of major caulks. These numbers are a rough guide as products vary. Bear in mind 700psi could tear apart fiberglass when removing a fitting. Adhesion = peel strength, strength = tensile strength

Full Article “Marine Caulking Products Guide” here

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Understanding Bottom Paint

| Maintenance | April 5, 2011

This is the time of year where you are planning your next boating season and before you launch your boat, you more than likely will be repainting her bottom. So what to use? Today paint choices are abound, but the main choice is between;

Hard antifouling


; When a bottom gets fouled the first sign is a slime covering the bottom called biofilm, which then leads to algae growth which in turn leads to barnacles and other creatures attaching to the bottom. To combat this Bottom paints contain biocides, cuprous oxide being the most popular, which are released at a controlled rate.

Level of Toxins

Hard paints contain varying levels of biocides which are released slowly on contact with water. Ablative paints generally contain lower levels of toxins but they are released at a more steady rate as fresh paint is exposed. In addition to Cuprous Oxide many paints now include a slimicide to prevent growth of slime. Slimicides can be identified by the names; Irgarol, Biolux by Interlux, and SR Slime Resistance by Pettit.

Cost of bottom paints ;

Full Article Bottom Paint Guide

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